Alinteri Words of the Day

Day Five (19 September): ANZAC II

Minor issues this morning but enough to throw me off my mark. Hopefully catch up will round itself out shortly. It is enough that this creature of habit’s morning routine has had his trail disturbed. Once sorted I feel hurried but resolved. Soon I am at breakfast circling about the honey and bread, cereal, raisins and hot food. Afterwards we advance to the café nearest to our embarkation point. The morning, like the strait and self, has become calm…one must remember…minor issues.

Again our team climbs to the top of the ferry for our crossing to the Gallipoli Peninsula. Two trips a day, there and back again, and how I do enjoy the crossing in these open-seating boats. I have time to think, to start the new words of the day. My mobile is a constant tool – the Notes app receiving a workout each day as I gather thoughts wherever I can. These initial impressions will be added too. More writing, more rumination to follow.

I believed earlier this may be my last visit here, but I think not. Why do we come back to these places? There are daily challenges, I have challenges – at times with every step. But I return because of what went before. Knowing, feeling this ground, these surroundings, sun, water, earth and sky – the people whose experience was this ground and turning this to my experience for them…for others.

We see more people today visiting relatively open sites. The benefit of this style of operational history tour is we go up and we go down the roads and trails less traveled. I appreciate those who visit here whether from cruise ships, buses or on their own. They have at least shown interest. What connects these visitors to these grounds (?) – to walk these earlier steps, to feel this ground, to stumble to fall, to feel the heat, the salt, the challenge of the climb…

It’s a four water bottle walk down a slope covered with debris and stone. Burnt branches litter the ground and in the near distance the sound of chainsaws and falling timber dry crackles its way to the earthen deck. Locals must wonder why we came this way as blackened hands wonder where to wash. The bosks* and holts** require fleet of foot and the free-spirited whip-like branches find their way across your person attempting to thwart your step, to challenge your balance, stinging when their twitch finds bare skin.

The climb down and up Rhododendron Ridge, part of the Sari Bair range is much kinder than 2012. The peaks here are 200 to 300 meters high or for us old school types 650 to 980 feet high. And to think soldiers climbed in between these trails and upwards whilst under fire! Aged steps of varying low and deep rises have been replaced with some kindness, albeit occasionally with a reach of the foot. Former railings made of branches have, as well, been replaced with a finer version of sturdy and do not wobble nearly as they did before. It is a grand walk to the water and an event that pushes me, like Gully Ravine to a return visit. With our journey’s end we board our bus to lunch at Hill 60 and stop at the Sphinx where we have time to become familiar with this landmark formation overlooking ANZAC.

Another walk follows uphill to Shell Green Cemetery where a diversionary cricket match was played on the green by the 1st Light Horse Brigade on the 17 December 1915. The tactical innings a ruse, a deception to conceal Allied preparations for the evacuation of the ANZAC and Suvla Bay sectors. With thoughts of batting and centuries (100 runs), bouncers and googlies I return whence I came down the graveled road, bringing an end to the historic portion of the day…and with each step I watch as the sun stipples across the water on the horizon.

Our bus attempts to reach an early Çanakkale ferry, but our boat has just departed. No hurry, there is more time to watch from this bank. I watch side to side observing life moving within the winds of today. It is a fine contrast to the past events we experience with our wanderings here. As the Alinteri*** 18 docks, I return to the present requirements. It has been a fine day of great effort and achievement. People and cars disembark (and load) at the same time. The vessel waits until full – not to a set schedule (it would seem). Before we depart the nearby minaret provides its audible devotional to all. Heads turn towards the direction of the call to prayer heralded from the tower and as we depart, I wonder what those amongst hear within its yearning voice?

* Bosk: thicket of bushes, a small wood.

** Holt: Old English. A small wood, wooded hill, grove of trees.

***Alinteri: Turkish meaning “sweat of the brow”. Hard work, labor or great effort. Used to emphasize that something was achieved through honest hard work.

From notes written 19 September 2025

—SNIP—