New Climbs for this Horizon

Member’s badge of the Salonika Campaign Society.
P. Ferguson image, September 2023.

Pursue and Pursuit

As we walk into the air, I feel the welcome heat immediately. Cautious steps down the boarding (de-planing) stairs and then towards the terminal at Thessaloniki. We pass through the barriers, immigration as signs above appear in Greek and English. There is no time for pictures. We turn another corner, and are well met by the mosquito sign of the Salonika Campaign Society. A small group of like-minded individuals who will share in our journey these next few days. As our cluster turns one other, not of our party, sports a classic silk-screened hoodie – the Anti-Social Social Club. I have returned to the Mediterranean (and Aegean) after some eleven years. There will be new climbs for this horizon.

Salonika Battlefield tour t-shirt
T-shirt from a previous tour. Several of our group have visited here multiple times.
P. Ferguson image, September 2023.

As our tour bus drives towards our first stop there are few people save for one attempting to sell biscuits between rows of autos. All of us are generally of an age save for one younger descendant whose ancestor remains here. The further our tour bus limbers along the more I am itching for a wander amongst the highlights that drift by. A classic 1930s British-built road roller covered in an even patina of rust passes by too quickly even for a reference shot through our spotted windows. Perhaps there will be (of course there will be) other moments? Still, I need a walk, as I yearn for content, images and context.

Dry ground and shadow at Roche Noire Salient.
The sun provides my shadow against the dry ground at Roche Noire Salient.
P. Ferguson image, September 2023.

Parallel to us glides a bird of prey in search of its earthly diet. Pursue and pursuit, evade and escape. I watch until the raptor banks on a return journey to whence it came. At our first stop we wander about a military cemetery where we receive the day’s foodstuffs and I become bedazzled by dragonflies, similar to our raptor friend, in pursuit of small white flies. I begin to wonder upon the natural history of this new place (to me). What wanders in pursuit but is itself pursued by challengers?

Along the trail a tortoise shell – well dried in the sun. Pursue, pursuit…no chance of evade and escape.
P. Ferguson image, September 2023.

Our first operational history site takes the group to the Roche Noir Salient captured by the British 27th Division 1-2 September 1918. This start to the final breakthrough, pursue and pursuit, was part of a large and well coordinated allied attack. The enemy’s forces collapsed to the west of Lake Doiran and on 29 September 1918 Bulgaria signed the Armistice of Salonika.

At the site of battle. The Roche Noire Salient, Greece.
One landscape of the Roche Noir Salient, Greece.
P. Ferguson image, September 2023.

It takes a while to cross the border into North Macedonia. Seemingly this day is one I was once familiar with reminding me of Western Europe border crossings in the 1960s. Soon our day draws to a new beginning at Doiran where we become better acquainted with ourselves and our interests. This evening’s food will feature fish dinners, elegantly prepared, though I can only pick at salads, potatoes and tomatoes. Cats are in abundance, watching upwards towards this new visitor. Also in pursuit…we are both hungry.

One of several feline visitors to the table. at Doiran, North Macedonia.
P. Ferguson image, September 2023.

For further information about the Salonika Campaign Society please visit their website.