P. Ferguson image, March 2026.
St. Olave’s Dr. Peter Turner
My new day begins – though only after the previous evening’s gathering (among friends) – only three hours after landing at Heathrow from Vancouver (8 hour time difference plus hurry up and wait time). Despite the post-flying continuation of time travel – Flight 84 being in motion for 8.5+ hours (A350-1000 aka A35K) 905 km/hour at 35,000 – 40,000’ – I do not actually feel I was in motion – I am only going through the motions. As the Tuesday guest speaker my preparation about some brave souls of the Canadian Expeditionary Force did not fail me…and now…after a modicum of rest it is indeed a new day…known as Wednesday.
I have looked forward to visiting St. Olave’s (Hart Street), near Tower Hill, for some long while. Despite previous attempts to visit I was unable to make my schedule fit but so much better for this day. This time I was prepared, having dedicated specific time to the visit and in making contact with St. Olave’s prior to my arrival. As a result of pre-planning I looked forward to meeting Reverend Phillip Dawson who was instrumental in bringing this traveller much joy at St. Olave’s church and churchyard. Phillip (and the parish cat Meow), kindly provided much time (and a ladder) during my walkabout.
P. Ferguson image, March 2026.
Having scoured digital maps of the area I planned my zig-zag route from Tower Hill tube station. This was my excitement, in addition to wandering, afterwards, over to Philpot Lane for Two Mice Eating Cheese…and on the return to the station discovering All Hallows was near by. A great surprise as I could have avoided the zig-zag and found my way easily to St. Olave’s (if I’d known). Again it was the walk, my zig-zag route of “soon to see” that added to my first St. Olave’s sighting. I was happy. The segue continues…
P. Ferguson image, March 2026.
On my return to Tower Hill station I walk through the hall of the war memorial contemplating names and vessels…there was something more to do here too…I cannot recall – my feet take me to Londinium. With the Tower of London as a backdrop I sit near the Roman wall munching a vegetables lunch while observing visitors to the 1980s bronze Roman statue of Trajan (53-117)…not a great conversationalist but he does have beautiful hands…
P. Ferguson image, March 2026.
Meanwhile…
…my real mission and first encounter with St. Olave’s (Hart Street near Seething Lane), built ~1050 following the Battle of London Bridge is its 1658 entrance featuring the ever watchful skull power trio (why does Motörhead come to mind?). Author Charles Dickens referred to both the gate and churchyard as Saint Ghastly Grim. Our skull brethren possibly situated to frighten body snatchers in their quest for fresh corpses for the study of anatomy by…well…anatomists…So too there are intricate horns of hurt above the three skulls and further running the length of the churchyard railings atop the coping stones. I enter. The skulls have failed this day to create fear from their pediment…standing stone, skull and bone…rictus grin…*
Courtesy of Reverend Phillip Dawson, St. Olave’s.
My focus for this effort…is London’s Blitz. St. Olave’s being severely damaged when Luftwaffe incendiaries claimed the church’s roof, tower and interior. The skulls of St. Olave’s had not created any fear for the Luftwaffe that day. The skull’s gaping gaze being downward – not towards the aerial. After my visit I learn that the church’s crypt was used as an air raid shelter – fear no doubt present. And of this Blitz…? I am here for Dr. Peter Turner (1542-1614) whose painted alabaster figure, once believed lost, was actually looted 17 April 1941 from the site debris…only to return…when this praying portrait appeared in a 2010 Dreweatts’ auction and recognized by a curator. Dr. Turner returned to St. Olave’s in June 2011.
Courtesy of Reverend Phillip Dawson, St. Olave’s.
I climb the ladder and meet with the doctor face to face…the work is all I had imagined and hoped for and now in person I have completed my walk made truly special by the kindness of Reverend Phillip Dawson and an associate who assists with securing the ladder. We continue for some while afterwards to walk about the church, crypt and churchyard. I am grinning ear to ear…no rictus here. With my eventual exit I turn back towards the macabre. St. Olave’s power trio continues their work…standing stone, skull and bone…rictus grin*…tomorrow is a new day…known as Thursday.
P. Ferguson image, March 2026.
From notes written 12 March 2026
*Deaf Forever lyric, Motörhead, 1986.