Prickles and Ants That Bite!

Introduction

The day begins (for me) at breakfast with a honey urn (an inverted hive), coffee at the café and on the ferry discussions of classic rock bands we have seen. Today is Anzac 1. It will be time to climb again. Hold up legs…knees…the roll-on muscle lotion applied. I am good to go. The lotion will, perhaps, be lasting. Remember to hydrate and sunscreen…

As our bus rolls on to our first objective – 21 of us in all – and most of us of an age…the song comes. Istanbul (Not Constantinople)…to be sung every day. Forever ingrained. Our daily tune becomes worthy of a quick search, and I am amused that the original was sung by the Canadian quartet…The Four Lads…good gosh the Canadians (and there are four of us this trip) are to blame for this ear worm released in August 1953!

Day Three (17 September): ANZAC 1

At Ari Burnu, near Suvla Bay, where the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps first landed 25 April 1915 we walk the rows of graves. Stones have been left atop several markers as evidence of other’s visits. Always I wonder what these visitor’s thoughts were…some perhaps relatives…others perhaps sentimental…the losses can be overwhelming. In the distance thunder…

We proceed south to Beach Cemetery at Hell Spit also near to Suvla Bay. Here, similar to our visitors who leave behind stones at Ari Burnu, visitors leave poppy crosses, pinecones and stones at the grave of John Simpson Kirkpatrick AKA John Simpson, a stretcher bearer of the 3rd Australian Field Ambulance.

Simpson used donkeys to transport the wounded to the beaches for evacuation. For almost a month, whilst under fire, Simpson continued in these actions until killed by machine gun fire 19 May 1915. His likeness together with his donkey appear on the Australian Anzac medallion and on statues at the Australian War Memorial and in England (Simpson was born in South Shields).

We climb today towards Plugge’s Plateau. Some of it fierce, one poor soul falls a second time in as many days – there are more days of this, one hopes for no further falls – no injuries. I understand their strength to keep going. Having fallen myself in 2012 I know that one’s will – will help you through the course. Repeating to myself, as I did in 2012, There is no way I will let this hurt affect my trek.

Our walk to Plugge’s starts at Shrapnel Valley Cemetery as we hike upwards along the constructed path to the left and then on to the foot trail. We look down towards Queensland Point from McLagan’s Ridge, now renamed Walker’s Ridge. Further along the path a sign simply marked Walk This Way points towards my family walk destination…in memory of the Harper family, two Australian brothers I only recently wrote about (see And So We Will Walk, September 1, 2025).

At Plugge’s Plateau Cemetery, the smallest of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission’s cemeteries in Gallipoli, a Kangal joins our team on to the Sphinx and beyond. Atop the ridge I look towards the Sphinx and the Razor’s Edge, all cameras are out as everyone captures the towering landmark…our Kangal finds shade, lies down and rests. Our large dog friend knows this route well, moving ahead, stopping well in advance at all points of interest. His reward will come later with snacks and water from our group. Rover has done this before.

With the heights that we climb, we must also face steep downward journeys…and then climb again…this time to 4^th Battalion Parade Ground Cemetery. At the end of the trail a sign…C.W.G.C. 4^th Bn. Parade Ground Cemetery / Steep path 200m [metres]. I am near to my main walk today…reminders of previous writings of the Beard Family Walk (24 May 2024), Oh My Dear Boy (John Macnaugton’s Walk – 26 August 2024), and Mrs. Kate Palmer’s Walk (11 August 2018) come to mind. But at this time…to the brothers Harper…the Harper family walk. Both lads killed 7 August 1915.

Now at Lone Pine Memorial and Cemetery I wonder if mother and father…Fanny and Charles Harper of Perth Australia have been here…or other family members. Only recently I had learned of the brother’s 1915 time influencing director Peter Weir. A story creating a story. How many others know more about Gallipoli thanks to Weir, thanks to Gresley Tatlock Harper (age 31) and Wilfred Lutkin Harper (age 25).

Upon arrival I take my time to find their names. There are visitors here and I have no wish to disturb them in their thoughts. Distant images first and then to the panel in the far left corner – nearest to the memorial – AUSTRALIAN LIGHT HORSE / 10^TH REGIMENT – and there the Harpers are before me…along with so many others…of their regiment…of other regiments and I wonder…how many others know about Gallipoli also thanks to other family names…Fry, Anderson, Holland, Ruwoldt, Villis…?

Always hard to leave my thoughts at Lone Pine…but there will be new thoughts…another day…we move out to the Anzac Mine Tunnels and Quinn’s Post. Here the tour’s oracle stands with a reading appropriate to our day before we leave for Bloody Angle and Dead Man’s Ridge. At long last I find some rosemary in thirst to photograph. We visit Walker’s Ridge Cemetery where one can see Suvla Bay in the distance.

Our day has featured thunder. Though a natural sound, some perhaps hear in its effect the chaos of hurt. We have passed through prickles and ants that bite, inclines, declines, plateaus, and trenches. At the end of this day a gathering of jackals passes without sound alongside our bus and into Gallipoli’s wilderness. There is voice in their silence.

From notes written 17 September 2025

For additional information on the Harper Brothers please read And So We Will Walk, Short Days Ago. 1 September 2025.

An Australian runner at Gallipoli – ANZAC John Hazlitt

—SNIP—